Improvement in instruments for drafting patterns



Z Sheets-Sheetl. C. H; GRIFFIN.

` INSTRUMENTS FOR DRAFTING PATTERNS. N0` 194,086, Patented Aug.14,1877.

N. PETERS. PHOT0LITHOG|2APHER. WASHINGTON. D C.

z sheets-Sheet z.

,c. H. GRIFFIN. INSTRUMENTS FOR DRAFTING PATTERNS. Nofmaoae.

Patented Aug.14,1877.

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N.PETERS, PHoTn-LITHOGRAFHER. wASHlNGYoN, D C.

UNITED: @STATES PATENT OFFICE.

CALEB H. lrRI`B`IIN` 0F LYNN, ASSIGNOR-OF ONE-HALF HIS RIGHT T0 DAVIDKNOX, 0F SAUGUS, AND ONE-FOURTH HIS RIGHT TOv ELIZABETH ELLEN DURGIN, 0FMALDEN CENTRE, MASSACHUSETTS.

lINIPRVEIVFIENT IN INSTRUMENTS FOR DRAFTING PATTEN'S.

Spcification forming part of Letters Patent No. l94,086, dated August14, 1877 application led December 5, 1873. Y

provided,'as hereinafter mentioned, with slides to vary their relativepositions, and also of two devices in the shape of patterns, whosebounding-lines are partly in the i'orm of peculiar curves, thesepatterns being also furnished with scales and indicating characters.

The object :of any invention .is to furnish the means whereby (thedimensions Aof the human `body being V.taken byactual measurement) apattern `is produced for the cutting out of' garments.

Figure .-1 isa viewo' .a pattern with lines, iigures, andV perforationsused in cutting the darts or ygores. Eig. 2 is a view fof a combinationof adjustable scales for marking ont the pattern oi' lthe back ofthe dress. Fig.` 3, is a viewof acurved ypattern for cutting out thedarts, arm-size, &c. Fig. 4 .is a view of a combination of adjustablescales for marking out the front lof the dress.

Fig.` 2 represents a strip of wood yor metal, marked Back N 0.8 7 in thedrawing,with three scales thereon. Two of these scales, one oneitheredge of the strip, are divided by `lines marked from171to50,1orsometimesfrom asmaller to a greater number. One is marked No5 and the-other No 6. There isalso a third scale, with 4figures runningfrom 7 to24. There is a metallic .loopon the strip at `theiend,bear ing`scale No. 5. There are three slides on the piece marked Back N o. 8,with two cross or axial slides attached to two of them, 4running :at`:right angles `with piece Back No.8. The other strips or piecesincluded in Fig. 2

Drafting y arel thus described Onepiece marked Back neck No. l, withscale thereon running from 17 t0 50, and connected with piece Back No.8V by the metallic loop ImentOned, in' which it slides at right anglesto Back No. 8; one piece marked Back shoulder, with scale thereon,numbered from 17 to 50, passing through a cross-slide, and Workingtherein ata right angle with piece marked Back No. 8; one piece markedBack No. 3, with scale thereon divided into parts, and numbered from lto l2,andoperated by means of a cross-slide, which holds it at a rightangle with piece .marked Back No. 8; one

piece marked Back waist No. 4, with scalel thereon divided intotl1irtyi`our parts, and numbered .from 17 to 50, attached by a pin orrivet, on which it partiallyr rotates, to aslide or piece marked BackNo. 8; one piece marked Shoulder No. 7, with scale thereon divided intotwenty-two parts, (more or less.)

numbered from l to l1, with `a slot through the center of .said piecefrom No. 1 to l1, or thereabout, `and connected with scale marked Backshoulder No. 2 by a pin in said slot, and connected withscale markedBack neck No. l by ra pin, on which it partially rotates. Thisconstitutes what I term the back instrw ment.

The front instrument, to `be used in connection 'with `the backinstrument above described,

is shown in Fig. 4, andcons-ists of several pieces of strips, thusdescribed: One Apiece marked Back-neck-scale No. 2, withscale thereondivided into thirtyfour partsyand numbered from 171:0 50; one .piecemarked Front-chest scale, with scale thereon divided into inches andparts of inches, and numbered from lv upward. The edges ofthis pieceform a dovetail, on which slides the: Front-arm-size scale N 0.3,whichisa triangle composed of four pieces, `tivo of which formV theslide work-ing on the Front-chest scale,

and two pieces, `one at either end of saidslide,

connected by rivets with it, and extending therefrom at an acute angle1till their ends Q remesa which is fastened, with rivets, the piecelmarked Back-neck scale No. 2, atanohtuse angle with piece marked Frontpiece No. S. There is a scale on the piece marked Front piece No. 8,marked Front-neck scale No. l. l This is divided into thirty-four parts,and numbered from I7 to 5U. f

'Accompanying the back and front instruments, and essential to theoperation thereof, is a piece in the shape of a pattern, markeddart-scale, (see Fig. 1,) with three longl sides and one short side, oneof the long sides being in' o'gee form; The side opposite to the ogeeside is divided into thirty-four parts, numA beredfrom 17 to 50,andmarked Nd l at the base.A lThe device bears thirty-four lines, runninghorizontally in .the drawing, and crossing the main part ofthe figure atright angles to and extending` to the ogee side. The drawing showscircular perforations on these lines. One row of perforations is marked(on the base-linev of the figure) No 2. The divisions made by' the linescommence at the base-line and'extend'to the top or short side. One rowofiperforations is marked Nd 3, and extends from the base to the top orshort side. One row of perforations, marked No.' 4, extends froml thebase to the top or short side. One. row of perforations, marked No. 5,extends similarly. Between the row of lines marked 'No. l and',`v therow of perforations marked Nd E is a V-shaped opening.

' Also accompanying back land front instruments, and essential to theoperation thereof', is a piece inl the shape of a pattern, with itssides cut in-peculiar curves,-as seen in Fig. 3, marked in vthe drawing`Scale No. 0, on which are marked Dart No. 7,"Back form t No. 9, Arm'sizeNo. 3, and Neck No. l,

and a short separating-line, Z, Fig, 3, horizontal in the drawing, atjunction of the portion marked in the drawing Dart No.` 7 and the upperportion, in the drawing, of the scale No. 0. This scale No. (lis alsoprovidedwith a perforation or dent, P, Fig. 3, at the top in thedrawing. I sometimes have twov or more of these perforations, andsometimes vary the lol cation by placing it or them an inch (more orless) to the right or left'of the point-shown in the drawing. s The useof this perforation is to indicate the amount of cloth to be taken outin front for the arm-size.

Operation of theinvention: I now proceed to give a practicalillustration of the operation of 'of the slide in which it works.

the instruments by rst assuming that a ladys breast-measure isthirty-fiveinches. Ithen set scale marked Back neck No.1 with figure 35even with straight edge of loop at end of piece marked Back No. 8; thenplace figure 35 on scale marked Back shoulder No.2even with the outerorl right-hand end ofthe slide in which it works; then slide theback-shoulder scale on scale marked No, 5 to ligure 35. Assuming thatthe width of back is fifteen inches, l set scale marked Back No. 3, atfigure 35011 scale No. 6, even with the outer or right-hand end I thenslide the scale back No. 3 in a direction at right vangles to piece backNo. 8, until the line at T on the scale comes even with the outer edgeofthe piece marked Back No. 8. This gives halfot' the width of back andlowerpoint of back-arm size. Assuming that the length ot' waistissixteen inches, I place scale marked Back waist No. 4 on back No. 8, at16 inches; then, assuming the waist measure around the body to betwenty-six inches, I draw a line at right angles with the piece markedBack No. 8 to No. 26011 scale marked Back waist No. 4. The scale markedShoulder No. 77 indicates elevation, slope, and length of shoulder. Thiscompletes the setting of .the back instrument.

I now place the instrument on the material to be drafted, with the pieceback No. 8 even withthe folded edge thereof, and draw a line from thestraight edge of loop at end of back No. 8 around vthe outer side ofscale-marked Back neck No. l, extendingv said line down the edge oi'scale marked Shoulder No. 7 to the number of inches indicated by thelength of shoulder-measure. This gives half of the back section of theneck and the length of the shoulder-seam, also the upper point ofbackarm size.

I then draw a line from shoulder No. 7, on the upper edge of piecemarked Back shoulder N o. 2, to outer edge of piece marked Ba-ck No. 8,I and number said line 35. Then I draw a line on upper edge of piecelmarked Back No. v3 to extreme left-hand end'thereof. I then lay theback instrument aside. v

I then place scale N o. 0, with the separating- -line mentioned, Z, Fig.3, at base of dart No.

7, on upper point of back-arm size, and, using that part of s caler No.0 as a guide, draw a curved line to lower point of back-arm size; thendivide Asaid curved line into three equal parts; then dot on waist-lineone inch from edge ot' material or line of back No. 8; then place acutepoint of scale No. 0 on lower dot in arm-size, and draw aline aroundedgeof back form No.V 9 to dot on waist-line for curved seam to side body.\This completes the draft of the back. I f

Having drafted the back, I now commence to draft the front portion ofthe garment by first taking the chest-measure,which,for thisillustration, I assume to be thirty-eight inches around the largest partof the breast. Ithen subtract the width of back (fifteen inches) fromthe chest-measure (thirty-eight inches) and the remainder (twenty-threeinches) I divide by two, giving eleven and one-haltl inches, which isone-half ot' the width ofthe front on chest-scale, at which point I setthe inside end of slide on chestscale, the inside edge or' which restsat 11% inches. I now cut out the back and place No. 35 on line No. 2 oninner edge ot' piece marked Back neck No. 2 opposite the correspondingnumber, theneck and shoulder pointing toward front piece N o. 3. Inextset the rounding side of pointer attached to slide on front-arm-sizescale No. 3 at No. 35 on said scale.

I then place the inner edge of obtuse point of scale No. 0 at No. 35 onfront-neck scale No. 1, bringing edge of said scale even with the netheredge of the scale marked Back neck No. 2, and draw a line, whichindicates one-half of the size of the neck, or, in other words, thedistance fromvthe center of the backbone to the center ot' the hollow ofthe throat.

I then pass the tape around the arm at the point where the sleeve andthe shoulder unite, and, for illustration, call it fifteen inches. Ithen (the breast measure being thirty-five inches) slide up the pointerQ, Fig. 4, till the upper edge of the same reaches the line 35 on thefront-arm-size scale No. 3. I then place the scale No. (l with theprojecting pin Q", Fig. 4, entering the perforation P, Fig. 3 5 tht-npass the tape from the point of junction of line 35 with the pointer Qaround the edge ofthe scale No. 0 to a distance of iifteen inches, whichfixes the place of the lower point ot' back-arm size. The scale No. 0,when put in position ou the pin Q", gives bottom and front of arm-sizeand top of side seam.

Front-neck scale N o. 1 on piece marked Front piece No. 8 gives heightof neck on the front.

To form the darts I use the piece termed Dart-scale, Fig. 1, with V slottherein, the righthand side of which is used to give relative positionof top of the back dart to the front dart, when thelongest straight edgeofthe dart-scale is placed against line No. 8 in Fig. 4. W hen thebreast-measureis thirty-five inchesI use holes on 1ine35 in linesofholes marked No. 3 and Nd 5, for top otf trst and second darts. Whenthe Waist-measure is twenty-six inches I use holes on line 26, in linesof holes marked No. 2, Nd 3, No. 4, and Nd 5, for base of darts andspace between them. I then place the side of dart-scale which isopposite the ogee side against line No. 8, and dot in rst hole on line26. This gives space between front edges of dress and lirst line of irstdart. I then move side of dart'scale from line No. 8 to said dot and dotin third and fourth holes on said lines. I then move front edge ofdart-scale to last dot and dot in hole 4 on line 26. This gives size andposition of darts and spaces between them. I

then place the acute point of ogee'on upperl dot 35, and draw' a line tofrontdot on waist, andV repeatl tor second dart, and use stra-ight sidefor back side of' darts. When less curve for darts is'desircd, l usedart form on scale No. 0.

I claim in dress-makers measuresi 1. The device shown in Fig. 1, beingthe pattern called the dart-scale,`as provided with lines, holes, andfigures, or other indicating characters, and the curved right-hand sidemarked dart, all when combined and arranged to operate substantially asdescribed and shown.

2. The scale-piece marked Back shoulder in Fig. 2, with its slide 2 atone end and pin at the other, and the subsidiary cross-slide seen, incombination with the sliding scale-piece marked Back neck No. l, and theloop bearing it, the slotted scale-piece marked Shoulder No. 7 also thescale-piece No. 5, and the piece marked Back No. 8, and bearingscalepiece entitled fSeale No. 5, all when constructed and arranged tooperate substantially as described and shown.

3. The scale-piece marked Back No. 3 in Fig. 2, in combination with itsslide 3, the cross-slide, and the piece marked Back No. 8, and thescale-piece entitled Scale No. 6, all when constructed and arranged tooperate substantially` as described and shown.

4. The scale-piece marked Back-Waist scale No. 4 iu Fig. 2, incombination with the pin on which it partially rotates, its slide 4, andthe piece marked Back No. 8, all when constructed and arranged tooperate substan tially as described and shown.

5. The combination of the piece marked Back No. 8, with its scale andscale-piece entitled Scale No. 5, and the end loop, and the piecesmarked, respectively, Back neck, Shoulder No. 7 ,77 with its slot, Backshoulder scale N o. 2, with its pin, Back No. 3, and Back-Waist scale No. 4, with its pin, with their slides and indicating characters, allwhen constructed and arranged to operate substantially as described andshown.

6. The scale-piece marked Back neck No. 2 in Fig. 4, in combination withthe piece marked Front-neck scale No. 1, 0r other strip of wood or metalor other material. when the two strips are fastened together at anobtuse angle, all substantially as described and shown.

7. The scalepiece marked Frontchest scale in Fig. 4, in combination withthe sliding triangle formed by the piece marked Front-arm-size scale No.3, the piece forming the opposite long side of triangle, and the pointerQ, all when constructed and arranged to operate substantially asdescribed and shown.

8. The scale-piece marked Front-arm-size scale N o. 3 in Fig. 4, withits pointer Q and pin Q2 their slide, and the support for the same, incombination with the Front-chest .Neck No. 1, and the perforation P, allcon- I, scale, and the scale-piece entitled Scale No. structed andarranged 4to operate substan- 0, of Fig. 3, with its perforation or dentP, tially asdescribed 'and shown.

all when constructed and arranged to operate CALEB HENRY GRIFFIN.substantially as described andshown. I Witnesses:

9. The scale-piece No. 0, of the congurae WILLIS GRIFFIN,

tion shown, .and provided with scale marked DAVID T. KNOX.

